Every man needs a good suit and it can be hard finding the right one. A great suit can enhance your best qualities; but finding the right one can depend heavily on your body type. Below are some tips for choosing a suit that fits each body type and for finding the suit that will have you looking your best.
How to Know the Fit is Right
Forbes puts it best when regarding the formula for a ‘fit’ suit. “The jacket should be large enough so as not to crowd the shoulders, yet be, when buttoned, smooth against the stomach.” Suit pants should drape the body in a way that they create clean, visual lines from the very top of the suit, to the very bottom. Different kinds of suits offer different fits, so we’ll discuss the best suits for each body type.
Men who are tall should aim to break up the giant space between your head and toes. The pants should break nicely on the shoes and the jacket should be a little on the longer side, to help cut down your leg line. You can break up an exceptionally tall frame by wearing patterns or separates, as well. The arm length should show minimum cuff, and making use of a pocket square is good way fill space.
Shorter men have quite the opposite problem. If you’re on the shorter side, you need a suit that will help create the appearance of a longer line, from head to toe. Shorter-cut jackets that cover the curve of your backside will help elongate the frame and make legs look longer, and jackets with peak lapels will do the same. Showing a little shirt cuff under the jacket will give your arms the appearance of being longer. Shorter men shouldn’t wear separates or belts, because it destroys the purpose of making one long line. Pinstripes however, can give the illusion of height.
Having a jacket with a peak lapel can help give the appearance of height, providing better proportions for large men. Jackets should also have two buttons to help elongate and narrow the larger frame. You should also consider purchasing a suit that is made out of a lighter fabric so that it gives the appearance of less bulkiness. If you don’t want solid color, avoid large checks or patterns. Sticking with narrow pinstripes or single dark colors create long lines. Making sure the jacket fits right is essential as well. Having the jacket nipped in at the waist can help give the illusion of a thinner waistline.
Skinny men should try adding padding to their suit jackets to give the illusion of broader shoulders. While larger men should stay away from heavy patterns, skinny men can benefit from patterns like checks and textured weaves, because they help add weight to the frame. The jacket should be double-breasted to help fill out the shoulders, and the lapels should be standard. The pants of the suit should be pleated to help add bulk to the lower half.